|
 |
|
 |
Eyes are the first face feature that most people will notice so it is especially important to practice eye make techniques until you are happy with a particular look. Different eye makeup styles can quite dramatically alter your appearance, from fresh to dramatic and beyond, anything is possible.
In this section we will stay true to traditional easy-to-follow techniques. The eye guide contains three parts: Eyebrows - shaping and cover. Eyes - Eye foundation, applying shadow and blending using four shades. Lashes - How to lengthen and thicken your lashes using a volumizing mascara. This is only one technique from 100's of possibilities but is quite dramatic and a pleasing look that can be worn both day and night.
Although I'll be posting "looks" here in the future you can download a Lauren Scarlet StyleSheet. Just print out as many copies as you need and apply makeup directly to the sheet to develop your skills and design your own looks for reference. Click here to download the "Look" Sheet. |
 |
|
Minimum: Creme eye Foundation, 4 color eyeshadow pallet (base, main, dark and light), Brow pencil, Khol Black eyeliner pencil & Black Mascara. Note: Images are not to scale!
Preferred: as above plus black liquid eyeliner
|
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
Creme Eye
Foundation |
Clinique Eye
Shadow Quad |
Eyebrow
Pencil & Black Khol Eyeliner (lower)
|
MAC Zoom
Mascara |
|
|
 |
|
Minimum: Large eye shadow brush, small eye shadow brush and a few cotton buds (for mistake correction) and brow tweezer. Note: Product images are not to scale!
Preferred : as above plus eyelash curler
|
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
Large eyeshadow
Brush |
Small eyeshadow
Brush |
Medium Angled eyeshadow
Brush |
Brow
Tweezer |
|
|
 |
|
This is just one of many possible looks and techniques. Personally I start my makeup with the eyes and build out from there. If any shadow application is dropped on the cheeks etc it can be easily removed without the need to reapply foundation.
Before starting on the eyes, apply an eye foundation or concealer to the under eye area using your fingertips and softly blend outwards to remove any hard edges. For many this area is quite often a darker skin pigment so a concealer is particularly recommended. We have covered moisturizer in a previous section for the above eye area. This will provide adequate grab for the eye shadow. If the skin is too dry the shadow powder won't adhere.
(1) Brows - First we have to shape the brows by removing any eyebrow hairs outside of the shape which we want to achieve, preferably from under the brow. Using special eyebrow tweezers, extract each hair as close to it's follicle as possible and to the angle it is growing. If you are unused to this procedure it is probably best to get a salon to first (style) shape them so that you can maintain the shape. Alternatively brow stencils are available from most beauty supply stockists. Brow hairs are easier to extract after a hot shower or steamy bath.
When you have a shape that you are happy with reinforce the look and fill in any empty areas by drawing over the brows with an eyebrow pencil (image 1) or using a small flat brush apply either the medium or dark eye shadows following the lines of the brow. As a rule of thumb eyebrow color should be 2 shades darker than your hair. This produces a more natural look than pencil and is the favored technique of professionals. |
 |
 |
|
 |
|
| Image 1 - Defining the brows using a Brow pencil. |
|
Image 2 - Applying the base eye shadow color using the medium brush. |
|
| (2) Eye Shadow - From your palette of 4 colors (light, base, main and dark) apply the base eye shadow to the over eye area (Image 2) working from the inside out. Be careful not to overload the (medium size) brush. Better in several steps rather than a single one. Over the eyelid, apply the main shadow color (Image 3) using the fine brush and no further than the socket edge but blend the edges slightly by lightly brushing outwards. To define the socket edge we're using a dark shadow applied only to the socket line (Image 4). Again in the direction of the nose to the ears. For a simple day look this step can easily be omitted. To create a softer look, blend this line (Image 5) with your larger eye shadow brush by following the socket line. In this look, the final color is near white and we use this to highlight the outer under-brow area. Clean the larger shadow brush with a tissue and load it with the light eye shadow and apply to the outer under-brow area (Image 6). Finally, make sure that whole eye area is properly blended. |
|
 |
|
 |
|
| Image 3 - Applying the main color. |
|
Image 4 - Applying dark eye shadow over the socket line. |
|
 |
|
 |
|
| Image 5 - Blending the socket line. |
|
Image 6 - Under brow high lighter. |
|
(3) Under eye - To emphasize your eyes, load a small amount of medium or dark eye shadow using the small eye shadow brush. Apply from the outside to inside just under the lash line. In this illustration (Image 7) we took the shadow color to two thirds way across under the lash line. For a more dramatic look you can follow this line to the inner eye area.
(4) Eye Liner - Eyeliner is meant to add depth to eyes and give definition to the lash line. Hold the eyelid skin taut with the fingertips of one hand and draw a fine line very close to the lash line with the other hand using a dark Kohl pencil or with a fine brush apply MAC's fluidline precision liner. Particularly effective as a night look or for photography. This will take a little mastering though. |
|
 |
|
 |
|
| Image 7 - Adding depth to the eye shape. |
|
Image 8 - Applying Mascara to the top lashes, after the lower lashes. |
|
| (5) Eyelashes - Ideally, use an eyebrow curler to heighten the effect of lashes before applying mascara. A curler will produce maximum front-on effect. In this example we are using a waterproof mascara that builds with each layer to produce quite thick lashes. If you want to use mascara on the top and bottom lashes apply to the lower lashes first. Do not overload the wand! Apply from the inner edge outwards. For the top lashes, look slightly down and hold the wand parallel to your lashes (Image 8). Using a slight horizontal zigzag motion apply the mascara then finish with a straight motion from the lash root to the tip. Apply above and below the lashes. For a fuller look, leave to dry for a few moments then reapply. If the lashes become stuck or clumpy, use an eyelash comb to separate them. |
|
 |
|
Image 9 - The finished look!
Many thanks to a very patient Jennifer English for modeling these eye makeup techniques. |
|
| Getting eye makeup correct takes time to master, so remember to practice... a lot. Onto Lips or back to Shade? |
For a great night look, I recommend watching international makeup artist Tricia Sawyers "Trix of the Trade" smokey eyes video tutorial to learn more on application and technique. |
| |
|
|
|
