Lauren's Guide to Makeup -Shade and Blush

The principle behind this section is to contour your overall face shape by the use of darker and lighter powders to achieve a soft and subtle look similar to the classic beauty look i.e. oval shaped. To finish, blusher will be applied to enhance the cheeks and provide a healthy looking finish to your face.

(1) If you apply too much blush, knock back with a base color powder.

(2) Use a Bronzer to enhance cleavage applied in a V shape progressively darker downwards. Blend upper V shading into chest area.

Beginner: 15 minutes

Experienced: 3 minutes

Commercial Links MAC Cosmetics UK
Clinique

Guide Links
(01)  Skin Preparation
(02)  Foundation
(03)  Face Shape
(04)  Shade and Blush
(05)  Eye Makeup
(06)  Lips
(07)  Nails
(08)  Hair
(09)  Body
(10)  Skincare
(11)  My Voice
(12)  Information

From the previous section (face shapes) you'll have some idea of the importance of shading, highlighting and blush otherwise known as contouring. Applied over foundation, skilful contouring can minimize areas you wish to diminish by using darker colors whilst areas you wish to enhance can be highlighted with lighter tones such as the cheek bone. We will only be using pressed powders as opposed to loose powder or blush cream in this guide. Good and even lighting is essential. So tie up your hair and read on.

Minimum: Pressed (cake) face powder in (a) dark, (b) base color (close to your foundation color) and (c) a lighter powder. Powder blusher. Available singly or sometimes as a palette.
Preferred: Same as above plus white powder (can use white matt eye shadow) and Bronzer

Some pressed face powders include application sponge. Similarly, some Blushers also include a brush as shown below.



Clinique face powder and sponge	MAC Studio Finish face powder	Clinique Blush powder and brush	Clinique Pressed powder

Minimum: Powder puff (sponge), blush brush and Powder (blend) brush
Preferred : as above plus angled contour brush



Compact powder puff (sponge)	MAC 150 Large Powder brush	MAC 261 Blusher Brush	Angled Contour Brush

(1) Base powder: Depending on your face shape, start by patting on a light amount of pressed base color to your face and neck with a compact sponge or a powder brush. This color needs to be a similar match to your foundation color. Do not drag the sponge or brush.

The next 3 sub-sections refer to the shading, highlighting and blush areas described in the previous page on face shapes.

(2) Shade powder: Now apply the darker powder to areas to be shaded. Typically you might shade along the lower jaw, temples, high forehead and maybe either side of the nose if its quite large. It's very much down to your face shape. Apply lightly at first as it's always easier to add a darker shade rather than subtract it. Blend in well. Check that both face sides are balanced and adjust where necessary.

(3) Highlight powder: Next we apply the highlighting. Usually along the cheekbones and any other areas that need bringing forward i.e. under lip, t-zone etc. Lightly blend. Check that both face sides are balanced and adjust where necessary.

(4) Blush: A well chosen blush will make your face look healthy. Typically colors range from pink to plum or even brown. The wrong choice of color will drain your face.

Using the blusher brush load a little blush onto it and tap across the wrist to remove excess powder, otherwise the application could look blotchy. Use sweeping upward strokes from the hollow of your cheek (suck in) to the top of the ears. Narrower at the ears to wider at the cheeks center. Don't apply above the cheek bone. Blend in well with the powder brush.



Shade target areas (depends on face shape)	Applying powder Blush (exaggerated)

Notes:
A light application of Bronzer powder will create a subtle sun-kissed look. Most bronzers also contain fine reflective particles to enhance the look. Bronzer can also be lightly applied to arms and upper chest to equalize face to body tones. Remember to moisturize those areas first though.

If you need to bring forward areas such as cheek bones even further, use a white eye shadow. Likewise, if there are areas you want to play down then shade with a darker color using bronzer or a brown blush i.e. to reduce nose size, shade down each side, highlight the bridge and blend.

Don't forget to blend into the ears and blend from the neck down depending on what you are wearing, but only lightly so you don't get powder across the top of your clothes.

Ready to makeup your eyes?